I would check it out carefully first. I wish I hadn't sold my Taurus M605 - it was a good little gun. REVOLVER CHECKOUT WARNING: Most of these tests require violation of the 'finger off trigger' rule.

Dan Wesson revolvers have serial numbers stamped on the side of the frame. As with Taurus revolvers, they use I's (vertical lines) that are easily mistaken for. Nissan terrano r50 rukovodstvo po ekspluatacii dizelj. The serial number of Taurus revolvers is usually stamped on the right side of the frame ahead of the trigger guard. With the serial number, Taurus Customer Service can go into the computer and tell you the model number for certain. This can be important if you are registering a firearm.

Therefore, be extremely careful about safe muzzle direction and personally making sure the gun is unloaded as you begin handling it. Bring a small, high-powered LED flashlight. Feeler gauges if needed; at a minimum, bring a.002',.004' and.006'. No dry firing is required or desired at any point. Cylinder play With the gun UNLOADED (check for yourself!), close the action. Thumb the hammer back, and while pulling the trigger, gently lower the hammer all the way down.

Keep holding the trigger once the hammer is down. (You've now put the gun in 'full lockup' - keep it there for this and most other tests.) Check for cylinder wiggle. Front/back is bad.

A little side to side is OK but it's a bad thing if you can wiggle it one way, let go, and then spin it the other way a fraction of an inch and it stays there too. At the very least, it should 'want' to stop in just one place (later, we'll see if that place is any good). The ultimate is a 'welded to the frame' feeling. Cylinder gap Still holding the trigger at full lockup, look sideways through the barrel/cylinder gap. If you're eyeballing it, you'll have to hold it up sideways against an overhead light source. SAFETY WARNING: This step in particular is where you MUST watch your muzzle direction.

Look, part of what's happening here is that you're convincing the seller you know your poop. It helps the haggling process. If you do anything unsafe, that impression comes completely unglued. Timing With the gun held in full lockup, shine a light into the area at the rear of the cylinder near the firing pin.

Look down the barrel to make sure the cylinder bore lines up with the barrel. Check every cylinder. Bore Swing the cylinder open, or with most SAs pull the cylinder. Use the small flashlight to scope the bore out.

Check each cylinder bore (chamber) with the light coming in from the front of each hole, you looking in from the back. Trigger To test a trigger without dry-firing it, use a plastic pen in front of the hammer to 'catch' it with the off hand, especially if it's a 'firing pin on the hammer' type. Or see if the seller has any snap-caps, that's the best solution.

SA triggers (or a DA with the hammer cocked) should feel 'like a glass rod breaking'. A tiny amount of take-up slack is tolerable, and is common on anything with a transfer bar or hammer block safety. Detecting Bad Gunsmithing Cock it, grab the hammer and 'wiggle it around' a bit. Give it a bit of up/down, left/right and circular action with finger off trigger and watch your muzzle direction. You don't want that hammer slipping off an overly polished sear. Check for too-light springs.

Replacement factory or Wolff springs are cheap both to buy and have installed. Quick Reminders: Full lockup Cylinder play Cylinder gap Alignment Bore and chambers Let off. Fixed notch or adjustable rear sight? Ridges on the cylinder fluting? I'm reasonably certain it's an 80s series from the 1970s, assuming the grips are original. If that's what it is, it was manufactured by Taurus using the old tooling they got from S&W for the Model 10. Quality control was all over the place because the tooling was worn out and the Taurus employees had no experience with it.